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Above: Monomoy Island is one of the largest haul-out areas for wintering Harbor seals.

Monomoy Island

If you want to spend the night in a light keeper's house or visit one of the largest bird sanctuaries and haul-out areas for wintering Harbor seals along the Atlantic coastline, Monomoy Island reaches out to you.

This classic barrier island lies at the southern tip of Chatham, jutting into Nantucket Sound about eight miles from the mainland. The land, once part of Morris Island, broke away in 1958. In 1978, the island split in half forming North and South Monomoy.

The mighty ocean, long stretches of beach, rolling dunes, salt marshes, tidal flats and freshwater ponds dot the landscape of this breathtaking wildlife refuge. Although it is now a rarely interrupted by human presence, for most of the 19th century, a small fishing community thrived here. Twenty to thirty beach shanties stood under the watchful eye of the Coast Guard Station in the present area of Powder Hole. A one-room schoolhouse, tavern, church and general store serviced the community, known as Whitewash Village. Today, the harbor that once housed 40 ships is little more than a landlocked tidal basin; only one shanty remains, left open for those needing refuge. And, except for use as a Navy bombing range during World War II, Monomoy aged peacefully over the years.

Above: Bird lovers will never be disappointed with a visit to Monomoy Island

In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt laid the groundwork for what would become the National Wildlife Refuge System. Poachers and plume hunters (looking for feathers to don fashionable hats) were threatened the population of pelicans, egrets and herons on a small island in Florida's Indian River. Under Roosevelt's order, the government established protection for this wildlife habitat. Today, hundreds upon hundreds of Wildlife Refuges span the country, including Monomoy Island, established as a wilderness area by an act of Congress in 1970.

Without question, Monomoy Island is a Nature Paradise no matter the season. Beach plum, cattails, sea oats, rosa rugosa, dusty miller and sundews thrive here. While you may only see tracks, a community of white tail deer also call the island home. Along the shore, horseshoe crabs and a myriad of other small sea creatures make beachcombing exciting. In the winter, up to 1,000 harbor seals which migrate south "haul-out"on Monomoy's shores.

But, perhaps the island is most remarkable for its birding opportunities. Every species of bird native to New England lives here and, because the island is a key resting spont along the Atlantic Flyway, birds from as far away as the Arctic and Brazil have graced its shores. As many as 10,000 shorebirds and 20,000 gulls have been spotted here on a single day. Yellowlegs, oystercatchers, prairie warblers, eiders, scoter, red-breasted mergansers and brant make season after season a delight for birdwatchers.

How To Plan A Visit:

• Only Morris Island is accessible by land. To reach the headquarters, take the first left after the Chatham Lighthouse and Coast Guard Station, then the first right. Here, you can hike, comb the beaches, or set off for a day of shellfishing or surfcasting.
• Because North and South Monomoy Islands are accessible only by boat, we suggest you joined a planned expedition. Commercial boat tours our available during the season.
• Throughout the year, the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary in Wellfleet (349-2615) arrange a variety of nature expeditions, including an overnight stay in the lightkeeper's cottage.
• Remember, though, an island visit epitomizes "roughing it." There is no running water or electricty. One must bring what one needs and carry what one brings. And, while there is much beauty in nature, there are also tics and poison ivy.
• All that aside, if you long for "drop-dead" views, and an up-close and personal exchange with the wild side of the Cape, a Monomoy Adventure is for you.